Keeping Rabbits Humanely: The Complete Guide for Happy Long-Ears (2026)
Rabbits are not cuddly toys for a child's room – they are highly intelligent, social animals with complex needs. Unfortunately, they are still often kept in small cages without companions, which leads to behavioral disorders and health problems.
This comprehensive guide (updated 2026) shows you how to keep rabbits truly in a species-appropriate way – whether indoors, in a hutch, or in the garden. Learn what rabbits really need: space, companionship, enrichment, and the right diet.

Table of Contents ▼
- What does the Swiss Animal Welfare Act say?
- Space requirements: How large should the enclosure be?
- Overview of housing types
- Rabbits are social animals
- Nutrition: What rabbits really need
- Enrichment and exercise
- Health: Common diseases and prevention
- Enclosure setup
- Tips for getting started: Acclimating a new rabbit
- Conclusion
- Frequently asked questions about keeping rabbits
- Rabbits are social animals – keeping them alone is against animal welfare regulations and harmful to their health.
- Minimum area according to TSchV: 1 m² – at least 6 m² is recommended for 2 rabbits.
- Hay makes up 80% of their diet – it is the most important basis for teeth and digestion.
- Annual vaccination against RHD1, RHD2, and Myxomatosis is highly recommended – even for indoor rabbits.
- Rabbits are crepuscular – exercise in the morning and evening is ideal.
1. What does the Swiss Animal Welfare Act say?
In Switzerland, clear legal minimum requirements apply to rabbit keeping (Animal Welfare Ordinance TSchV, as of 2026):
- Minimum enclosure size: For 1–2 rabbits, at least 1 m² (small breeds) to 1.5 m² (medium breeds)
- Minimum height: 60 cm (so rabbits can sit upright)
- Minimum distance to jump through: at least 150 cm
- Social contact: Rabbits must have at least visual, auditory, and olfactory contact with conspecifics
- Retreat options: Mandatory – rabbits need hiding places to retreat
These minimum dimensions are the absolute minimum. Anyone who wants to keep rabbits truly in a species-appropriate way provides significantly more space.
2. Space requirements: How large should the enclosure be?
Animal welfare organizations recommend significantly more than the legal minimum for 2 rabbits:
- Floor area: at least 6 m² (e.g., 3 x 2 m)
- Daily exercise: at least 2–4 hours of free running
- Multiple levels: use platforms and ramps
- Outdoor enclosure in summer for Vitamin D
- At least 1 sleeping house per animal
- Hay rack always filled
- Fresh water daily
- Chewing material and enrichment
Rabbits are crepuscular and nocturnal – plan exercise so that it is accessible in the evening and early morning. Anyone who locks rabbits up during the day misses their most active time.
3. Overview of housing types
- Secure cables and wooden furniture – rabbits chew on everything
- Daily free run in at least one room
- No drafts, no air conditioning directly on the enclosure
- Ideal temperature: 15–20°C
- Protection from foxes, martens, hawks – fully secured
- Roofing and wind protection absolutely necessary
- Winter protection: no drafts and no frost
- Wire mesh in the ground against burrowing predators
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4. Rabbits are social animals: Why you should never keep only one rabbit
Rabbits are extremely social creatures. Solitary keeping demonstrably leads to psychological damage, behavioral problems, and a shortened lifespan. Always keep at least two rabbits together.
- Two neutered bucks (socialized as young animals)
- One doe + one neutered buck (classic pairing)
- Two does (often harmonious, but not always)
Before introducing a second rabbit, acclimate both animals slowly to each other. Direct introduction leads to fights!
5. Nutrition: What rabbits really need
Hay – the most important food source
Hay should make up 80% of a rabbit's diet. It is essential for:
- Healthy digestion (rabbit gut needs constant movement)
- Tooth wear (rabbit teeth grow throughout their lives)
- Enrichment (hours of eating is natural behavior)
Quality feature: Good hay is green, smells pleasantly of meadow, and contains many different herbs and grasses. Dusty, brown hay is harmful to health.
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Fresh Food
- Parsley, basil, dill, cilantro
- Endive, chicory, romaine lettuce
- Fennel, kohlrabi, arugula
- Occasionally: carrots, apple (without seeds)
- Iceberg lettuce (too much water, bloating)
- Nuts, grains, bread – too starchy
- Onions, garlic, leeks – toxic!
- Avocado, rhubarb, raw beans – toxic!
Carrots and fruits contain a lot of sugar and should only be given occasionally as treats – not as daily staple food. Too much sugar leads to digestive problems and obesity.
Pellets – useful or not?
Pellets can be a useful supplement, but should not form the basis of the diet. Choose pellets without added sugar, corn, or colorful muesli. Amount: max. 1–2 tablespoons per animal per day.
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6. Enrichment and exercise: Rabbits need variety
Boredom makes rabbits sick – literally. Psychologically impoverished rabbits develop stereotypies, eat their own fur, or become aggressive. Offer them:
- Hay rack always filled – hours of chewing is enrichment
- Digging box with sand or soil for digging
- Branches for gnawing: apple, pear, hazel, willow (unsprayed!)
- Cardboard tubes filled with hay – simple DIY toy
- Tunnels, willow baskets, and hiding places
- Changing food hiding places – promotes natural foraging behavior
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7. Health: Common diseases and prevention
RHD and Myxomatosis
Both diseases are widespread in Switzerland and often fatal. Vaccinations are strongly recommended:
- RHD1 + RHD2: annual vaccination (since RHD2 also important for indoor rabbits!)
- Myxomatosis: annual vaccination (combination vaccine available)
GI stasis (gut slowdown)
The most common emergency situation in rabbits. Signs: no defecation, bloated abdomen, loss of appetite.
If GI stasis is suspected, see a vet immediately! Prevention: plenty of hay, sufficient exercise, no overly soft food.
Dental problems
Rabbit teeth grow lifelong – poor hay or too little roughage leads to dental malocclusion. Regular vet check-ups are advisable.
Parasite infestation
Ear mites, fur mites, and coccidia are common. Regular checks and hutch hygiene are the best prevention.
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8. Enclosure setup: What every rabbit needs
- Drinking water: fresh water daily – sipper bottle or heavy ceramic bowl
- Hay rack: always filled, hung elevated (to stay clean)
- Sleeping house / retreat area: a separate little house for each animal
- Bedding: hemp litter, straw pellets, or paper shavings (no cat litter!)
- Raised platforms: for overview and enrichment
- Chewing material: branches, willow rings, natural toys
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9. Tips for getting started: Acclimating a new rabbit
Set up the entire enclosure before the rabbit moves in – fill the hay rack, provide water, place hiding spots.
Gently place the rabbit from the transport box into the enclosure – do not touch, no loud noises, no touching in the first few hours.
The first few days: only observe the rabbit, do not touch. A calm environment is more important than contact.
Sit on the floor, offer treats, let the rabbit decide when it wants contact.
Only introduce a second rabbit after full acclimatization (2–4 weeks) – always slowly and on neutral ground.
Conclusion: Species-Appropriate Rabbit Keeping is Achievable!
Keeping rabbits appropriately for their species is not rocket science – but it requires knowledge, commitment, and the right accessories. Those who provide their rabbits with sufficient space, companionship, activity, and the right nutrition will be rewarded with relaxed, happy animals.
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