Keeping Rabbits Humanely: The Complete Guide for Happy Long-Ears (2026)

Rabbits are not cuddly toys for a child's room – they are highly intelligent, social animals with complex needs. Unfortunately, they are still often kept in small cages without companions, which leads to behavioral disorders and health problems.

This comprehensive guide (updated 2026) shows you how to keep rabbits truly in a species-appropriate way – whether indoors, in a hutch, or in the garden. Learn what rabbits really need: space, companionship, enrichment, and the right diet.

Keep rabbits in a species-appropriate way Switzerland sanilu.ch

Table of Contents
The Most Important Things at a Glance
  • Rabbits are social animals – keeping them alone is against animal welfare regulations and harmful to their health.
  • Minimum area according to TSchV: 1 m² – at least 6 m² is recommended for 2 rabbits.
  • Hay makes up 80% of their diet – it is the most important basis for teeth and digestion.
  • Annual vaccination against RHD1, RHD2, and Myxomatosis is highly recommended – even for indoor rabbits.
  • Rabbits are crepuscular – exercise in the morning and evening is ideal.

1. What does the Swiss Animal Welfare Act say?

In Switzerland, clear legal minimum requirements apply to rabbit keeping (Animal Welfare Ordinance TSchV, as of 2026):

Legal Minimum Requirements TSchV
  • Minimum enclosure size: For 1–2 rabbits, at least 1 m² (small breeds) to 1.5 m² (medium breeds)
  • Minimum height: 60 cm (so rabbits can sit upright)
  • Minimum distance to jump through: at least 150 cm
  • Social contact: Rabbits must have at least visual, auditory, and olfactory contact with conspecifics
  • Retreat options: Mandatory – rabbits need hiding places to retreat

These minimum dimensions are the absolute minimum. Anyone who wants to keep rabbits truly in a species-appropriate way provides significantly more space.

2. Space requirements: How large should the enclosure be?

Animal welfare organizations recommend significantly more than the legal minimum for 2 rabbits:

Recommended Minimum Dimensions
  • Floor area: at least 6 m² (e.g., 3 x 2 m)
  • Daily exercise: at least 2–4 hours of free running
  • Multiple levels: use platforms and ramps
  • Outdoor enclosure in summer for Vitamin D
Mandatory Enclosure Equipment
  • At least 1 sleeping house per animal
  • Hay rack always filled
  • Fresh water daily
  • Chewing material and enrichment
Practical Tip 💡

Rabbits are crepuscular and nocturnal – plan exercise so that it is accessible in the evening and early morning. Anyone who locks rabbits up during the day misses their most active time.

3. Overview of housing types

Indoor Enclosure (House Rabbits)
  • Secure cables and wooden furniture – rabbits chew on everything
  • Daily free run in at least one room
  • No drafts, no air conditioning directly on the enclosure
  • Ideal temperature: 15–20°C
Outdoor Enclosure / Hutch in the Garden
  • Protection from foxes, martens, hawks – fully secured
  • Roofing and wind protection absolutely necessary
  • Winter protection: no drafts and no frost
  • Wire mesh in the ground against burrowing predators

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4. Rabbits are social animals: Why you should never keep only one rabbit

Rabbits are extremely social creatures. Solitary keeping demonstrably leads to psychological damage, behavioral problems, and a shortened lifespan. Always keep at least two rabbits together.

Recommended Combinations
  • Two neutered bucks (socialized as young animals)
  • One doe + one neutered buck (classic pairing)
  • Two does (often harmonious, but not always)
Practical Tip 💡

Before introducing a second rabbit, acclimate both animals slowly to each other. Direct introduction leads to fights!

5. Nutrition: What rabbits really need

Hay – the most important food source

Hay should make up 80% of a rabbit's diet. It is essential for:

  • Healthy digestion (rabbit gut needs constant movement)
  • Tooth wear (rabbit teeth grow throughout their lives)
  • Enrichment (hours of eating is natural behavior)

Quality feature: Good hay is green, smells pleasantly of meadow, and contains many different herbs and grasses. Dusty, brown hay is harmful to health.

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Fresh Food

✅ Suitable Fresh Food
  • Parsley, basil, dill, cilantro
  • Endive, chicory, romaine lettuce
  • Fennel, kohlrabi, arugula
  • Occasionally: carrots, apple (without seeds)
❌ Not Suitable (toxic/harmful)
  • Iceberg lettuce (too much water, bloating)
  • Nuts, grains, bread – too starchy
  • Onions, garlic, leeks – toxic!
  • Avocado, rhubarb, raw beans – toxic!
Important to note ⚠

Carrots and fruits contain a lot of sugar and should only be given occasionally as treats – not as daily staple food. Too much sugar leads to digestive problems and obesity.

Pellets – useful or not?

Pellets can be a useful supplement, but should not form the basis of the diet. Choose pellets without added sugar, corn, or colorful muesli. Amount: max. 1–2 tablespoons per animal per day.

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6. Enrichment and exercise: Rabbits need variety

Boredom makes rabbits sick – literally. Psychologically impoverished rabbits develop stereotypies, eat their own fur, or become aggressive. Offer them:

Enrichment Ideas for Rabbits
  • Hay rack always filled – hours of chewing is enrichment
  • Digging box with sand or soil for digging
  • Branches for gnawing: apple, pear, hazel, willow (unsprayed!)
  • Cardboard tubes filled with hay – simple DIY toy
  • Tunnels, willow baskets, and hiding places
  • Changing food hiding places – promotes natural foraging behavior

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7. Health: Common diseases and prevention

RHD and Myxomatosis

Both diseases are widespread in Switzerland and often fatal. Vaccinations are strongly recommended:

Rabbit Vaccination Schedule Switzerland
  • RHD1 + RHD2: annual vaccination (since RHD2 also important for indoor rabbits!)
  • Myxomatosis: annual vaccination (combination vaccine available)

GI stasis (gut slowdown)

The most common emergency situation in rabbits. Signs: no defecation, bloated abdomen, loss of appetite.

Emergency ⚠

If GI stasis is suspected, see a vet immediately! Prevention: plenty of hay, sufficient exercise, no overly soft food.

Dental problems

Rabbit teeth grow lifelong – poor hay or too little roughage leads to dental malocclusion. Regular vet check-ups are advisable.

Parasite infestation

Ear mites, fur mites, and coccidia are common. Regular checks and hutch hygiene are the best prevention.

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8. Enclosure setup: What every rabbit needs

Basic Equipment for a Rabbit Enclosure
  • Drinking water: fresh water daily – sipper bottle or heavy ceramic bowl
  • Hay rack: always filled, hung elevated (to stay clean)
  • Sleeping house / retreat area: a separate little house for each animal
  • Bedding: hemp litter, straw pellets, or paper shavings (no cat litter!)
  • Raised platforms: for overview and enrichment
  • Chewing material: branches, willow rings, natural toys

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9. Tips for getting started: Acclimating a new rabbit

Prepare the enclosure

Set up the entire enclosure before the rabbit moves in – fill the hay rack, provide water, place hiding spots.

Quiet arrival

Gently place the rabbit from the transport box into the enclosure – do not touch, no loud noises, no touching in the first few hours.

Respect the acclimatization period

The first few days: only observe the rabbit, do not touch. A calm environment is more important than contact.

Slowly build contact

Sit on the floor, offer treats, let the rabbit decide when it wants contact.

Introducing a Second Rabbit

Only introduce a second rabbit after full acclimatization (2–4 weeks) – always slowly and on neutral ground.

Conclusion: Species-Appropriate Rabbit Keeping is Achievable!

Keeping rabbits appropriately for their species is not rocket science – but it requires knowledge, commitment, and the right accessories. Those who provide their rabbits with sufficient space, companionship, activity, and the right nutrition will be rewarded with relaxed, happy animals.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Rabbit Keeping

How big does a rabbit enclosure need to be?
The Swiss Animal Welfare Act prescribes at least 1 m² for 1–2 small-breed rabbits. In practice, animal welfare organizations recommend at least 6 m² of floor space for 2 rabbits, plus daily free-range exercise of at least 2–4 hours. More is always better – rabbits are active animals that need a lot of space.
Can I keep a rabbit alone?
No. Rabbits are social animals and demonstrably suffer from solitary confinement – psychologically and physically. Solitary confinement leads to behavioral disorders, depression, and a shortened lifespan. Always keep at least two socialized rabbits together. The best combination is a castrated buck with a doe.
What do rabbits like to eat best?
Hay is the most important food source and should make up 80% of their diet. Additionally, they should have fresh herbs and vegetables daily, such as parsley, endive, fennel, and arugula. Pellets are a useful supplement but not a substitute for hay. Carrots and fruits should only be given occasionally – they contain too much sugar.
Do rabbits need to be vaccinated?
Yes, it is strongly recommended. In Switzerland, RHD1, RHD2, and myxomatosis are widespread – all three diseases can be fatal. Annual vaccination also applies to indoor rabbits, as RHD2 can be transmitted via insects, shoes, or clothing. Discuss the exact vaccination schedule with your veterinarian.
How long do rabbits live?
With species-appropriate keeping, domestic rabbits live an average of 8–12 years. Small breeds tend to live longer than large breeds. Important factors for a long life: species-appropriate nutrition (lots of hay), sufficient exercise, companionship, regular vet visits, and annual vaccinations.
Can rabbits live outdoors in winter?
Yes, if the hutch is well-prepared. Rabbits tolerate cold better than heat – but no drafts, no frost, and no dampness. The hutch must be insulated, wind-protected, and dry. Fill bedding generously, protect water bottles from freezing, and allow the animals enough space to move around to generate body heat.
What are the costs of species-appropriate rabbit keeping?
The initial costs for two rabbits, including a species-appropriate enclosure (at least 6 m²), furnishings, and initial equipment, range from CHF 300–800 depending on the solution. Ongoing monthly costs: approx. CHF 50–80 for hay, food, bedding, and vet visits. Additionally, there's the annual vaccination (approx. CHF 60–100 per animal). Quality pays off – a good enclosure lasts for many years.