Keeping chickens in winter: Tips for Swiss keepers

Winters in Switzerland bring cold, damp and rapid weather changes - factors that make keeping chickens in winter particularly challenging. If you want to keep chickens in winter, you need a well-planned, dry and draught-free shed, frost-free water and appropriate feeding. At the same time, the requirements of the Swiss Animal Welfare Ordinance (TSchV) and cantonal regulations apply. This guide brings together practical recommendations, orientation values and checklists for hobby keepers and farms to ensure that hens stay healthy and egg production remains stable even in the cold season.

Why is keeping chickens in winter challenging?

The combination of cold, wet conditions and less daylight places particular demands on the organism of laying hens. Feathers provide good insulation, but damp litter, cold draughts and frozen drinking troughs increase stress and disease pressure. In addition, natural laying performance decreases when daylight is short. Keeping chickens in winter therefore means adapting the climate, hygiene, feeding and light according to management requirements so that the animals remain vital and the immune system remains stable.

How can the henhouse be winterized - insulation, ventilation, light?

Insulation: warm enough, but above all dry

A winter-proof chicken coop does not need living room temperatures. The aim is a dry, draught-free environment with moderate temperatures. Walls and roof can be insulated with wood fiber boards or sheep's wool, depending on the type of construction; foils should be open to diffusion to prevent condensation. Windows with double glazing or insulating film reduce heat loss. Important: Cold is less of a problem than damp - dry bedding protects feet and toes from frostbite.

Ventilation without draughts: ammonia out, fresh air in

Good ventilation is the key to keeping chickens in winter. Small, opposing ventilation openings at the top under the roof ridge (with grille) allow warm, humid air to escape while cooler fresh air flows in. Draughts at perch height and in the nest area should be avoided. Controlled air exchange prevents respiratory problems and keeps the humidity in the target range. In very small stables, slit openings or adjustable flaps that can be adjusted depending on the wind direction can help.

Floor, bedding and hygiene: deep, dry, non-slip

Straw, wood shavings or hemp bedding bind moisture and insulate. In winter, the deep litter method has proven its worth when keeping chickens: a sufficiently thick layer of litter (approx. 10-15 cm, depending on the coop) is regularly loosened and supplemented with fresh material. Dung boards under the perches make daily manure removal easier. Non-slip, dry areas around feed, water and nests are important to prevent bale inflammation.

Perches, nests and space

Perches should be round or rounded, non-slip and dry. As a rule of thumb, perches should be approx. 15 cm long per hen and 30-40 cm between parallel perches. Laying nests are padded with dry litter and positioned so that they are draught-free. Sufficient movement space in the henhouse allows natural thermoregulation and reduces quarrels, which is particularly relevant when keeping hens in winter with limited access to the outdoors.

Light management: balance out the length of the day

Short winter days reduce laying performance. A gentle, timer-controlled light program can extend the total light hours to approx. 12-14 hours per day. Ideally, the additional light should start in the morning so that the evening remains dark and quiet. Bright, low-flicker LED solutions increase animal welfare. The TSchV requires sufficient daylight; artificial light does not replace this, but helps to stabilize the rhythm.

Feeding and water: What adjustments need to be made in winter?

Energy requirements increase because the body needs to produce heat. A balanced laying meal remains the basis, supplemented with grains (e.g. wheat, maize, barley). A small amount of oil (e.g. rapeseed oil) or sunflower seeds provides additional energy. High-quality proteins (e.g. peas, soy in compound feed) and minerals (shell limestone, grit) ensure eggshell quality. Fresh greenery is scarce in winter - vegetable cuttings, sprouted feed and hay herbs are suitable substitute sources.

Water freezes quickly; insulated, heatable drinking troughs or multiple daily refills keep it liquid. When keeping chickens in winter, it is worth having a drinking place close to the perches that is protected from the wind. Make sure the drinkers are clean, as dirty water encourages diarrhea. Salt and sugar should not be added to the drinking water; electrolytes should only be added selectively in case of stress.

Exercising in the snow: What rules make sense and what applies in times of crisis?

When it's dry and cold, chickens enjoy going outside, but snow and ice make it difficult. Board paths, straw carpets or rubber mats create non-slip zones. Covered areas, windbreak nets and snow guards keep exercise areas usable. Sand and ash baths promote plumage care even when the ground is wet. When keeping chickens in winter, it is worth adapting exercise times to the weather and daylight.

If there is an increased risk of avian influenza, the authorities can impose temporary outdoor restrictions or compulsory housing. Strict biosecurity is then key: feed and water only in the barn, avoid contact with wild birds, secure access points. Hobby farms should contact the local authority for information, while farms should coordinate measures with the cantonal veterinary authority. In a normal situation, the run remains permitted as long as it is dry and safely accessible.

Health and biosecurity: How can diseases be prevented in winter?

Prevention starts with stable climate and hygiene. Daily manure removal from the manure boards, dry bedding, clean drinking troughs and a balanced feed are the cornerstones. Regular weight checks and plumage checks reveal problems at an early stage. Parasites such as red mite are reduced by dryness, silicate powder on perches and consistent scratch cleaning. Newly housed birds should remain separated until a health check has been carried out.

Hobby vs. commercial: What is the difference between winter practice?

Hobby keeping (small groups, private)

Commercial husbandry (larger flocks, farms)

Legal aspects in Switzerland: What does the TSchV require in everyday winter life?

The TSchV requires animal-friendly housing that offers protection from the weather, sufficient dry lying and scratching areas and access to clean water and suitable feed. This includes access to daylight, materials (e.g. bales of straw) and species-appropriate seating. For laying hens, standard guidelines such as approx. 15 cm per animal are widely used; exact minimum requirements depend on the size of the flock and the type of housing. Building and usage permits from the municipality must be checked for structural adaptations; consultation with the cantonal animal welfare office is recommended.

Three Swiss climate zones: What does practice show?

Central Plateau (cold and damp, frequent fog)

Damp air is the main problem: ventilation openings at the top of the coop, deep litter and covered walking areas keep feathers dry. Keeping chickens in winter with regular manure removal on manure boards prevents ammonia peaks. Non-slip paths to the run reduce injuries caused by hoar frost.

Alps & Pre-Alps (cold, lots of snow)

Permafrost requires frost-free drinking troughs, well-sealed stable doors and support structures that can withstand snow loads. Light programs stabilize the laying performance despite short days. Exit zones require snow fences, straw carpets and wind protection; the exit remains closed during storms.

Southern Alps/Ticino (milder but wet)

With frequent rain, dryness comes first. Raised barn foundations, drainage and roof overhangs help. In this zone, the focus of keeping chickens in winter is less on heavy insulation and more on ventilation and moisture management.

Checklist before the first frost: what to do now?

1. 1 Check ventilation openings: open at the top, draught-free at the bottom; grilles intact?
2. 2 Fill up with litter (approx. 10-15 cm) and install or clean manure boards.
3. 3 Make water troughs winter-proof: Heating plate, insulation or schedule for refilling.
4. 4 Set up lighting program (timer), total brightness approx. 12-14 hours.
5. 5 Check feed plan: Slightly increase energy density, replenish minerals/grit.
6. 6 Make the run suitable for winter: non-slip paths, roofing, wind protection.
7. 7 Draw up an emergency plan: Vet contacts, quarantine crate, power cut backup.

Choice of breed and behavior: Which chickens are hardy?

Hardy breeds often have denser underplumage and greater robustness, such as Appenzeller Spitzhaube, Sussex, Plymouth Rock or Bresse-Gauloise. Animals with very large combs require special frost protection (e.g. avoid draughts, dry perches). Calmer, heavy breeds often cope better with days spent indoors, while lighter, active breeds need more material to keep them occupied. The decisive factor in any hen house in winter is: dry, draught-free, water not frozen.